_rest for the soul. snow for the road_

Monday was over, our presentations finished, and only one more class in the morning to attend. Rome had become a bit stressful, to busy and chaotic. On Wednesday I would leave for Torino, the place of my old apartment, my old studies, and most importantly, my old friends.

It was a pretty smooth transition to get to the airport, but of course with the usual Italian bustle and last-minute rush, as is always present. After exiting the train, and finding the correct of five terminals, it was a relatively painless trip to the airport. Italian airport security is MUCH less painful than at American airports. I don't even have to take off my shoes! It's wonderful. And it moves much quicker. Consequently, you have a little time to kill, but in the rush of airports, time is always welcome. A few minutes later, and the shuttle comes to bring all the passengers to the plane. Everyone crowds on, all talking rapidly on their cell phones to either fellow business colleagues or loved ones. A couple children scream in the background, their parents trying to hush them as best they can.

The flight was short - less than the time it takes me to fly from Minneapolis to Chicago. I guess that put's into perspective the size of Italy versus the United States! I took a seat in the back of the aircraft, a space by the window so I could look out onto Italy before it was overtaken by clouds at higher altitudes. Rome and all of it's craziness fell into the distance, the coast quickly came and left the view, and soon the sea blotted out all memory of land. A few winks of sleep later, and lights of the cities and towns below glittered on the black ground, mountains looming but not yet distinguishable. Soon, the highly gridded system of Torino's streets and boulevards came into view, a very welcome sight.

I didn't take this.. but this is more or less what I saw. Looks good! 

Torino's airport is small, but clean and easy to navigate, which helps when you have someone to meet. Various people stood outside the sliding glass doors marked "Arrivals/Arrivi" holding signs of different travelers. Some were normal, with various  last names written on cards, some were peculiar... like "Hot Buns" ...to which an entire group of Scandinavian-looking businessman answered. ...

My contact was also my incredibly gracious host, Signore Miglia, the father of my dear friend Marina with whom I was staying. Though he spoke no English, his kindness and generosity was obvious. I so desperately wish I knew more Italian in order to talk with him more! We drove straight to the Exhibition for our projects, something I had been looking forward to for a while! Almost everyone was there when I got there. It was so good to see everyone! I realized then how much I missed all of the Italian students. Being Italy isn't quite the same without them in class! They are what made Torino great - being able to see it and experience it with new-found local friends.  Later we went out for pizza, the first place of the first night that started it all. Not everyone was there, but it was still a good crowd. The Americans were pretty outnumbered... as it should be :) The place was Sicilian, and had specialties like aranchini - which are fried balls of rice with a filling inside. They are pretty delicious. After dinner we went out for drinks, as always, and this time to a fancy-looking Indian-themed bar/restaurant. I just needed coffee. Everyone talked like they used to. Sharing music and movies, figuring out differences in Italian and American culture... asking to repeat phrases when someone spoke too quickly...

I know it might seem like I like Torino a little too much. But.. I really do love it! It was much more of a home than Rome is. Rome is a metropolis, full of ancient items and tourists, souvenirs made in China and much much too much rain. I do like Rome a lot, but it is not a home. Torino is more of a home, even if it was only for a short period of time. It was so good to be back!

_fellowship_

In the past few weeks, I have learned more about the incredible importance of fellowship. Yes, God is enough. But fellowship makes life very sweet. Recently, I've had the incredible gift of joining up with a group of girls from Iowa State for a Bible study on Thursday nights. What an incredible blessing. We've been going through Romans, which is awesome...because we are in Rome! But also, it has been such an oasis for me. There is such joy when you can just share with people what is on your heart, what God is doing in your life, your struggles, and your successes. When you can just be with some Christian girls, there is an automatic level of trust because you have Someone in common. Your lives are about living for Jesus, and about pushing one another to live for Jesus even more. If you girls ever read this, THANK YOU for being such a blessing to me, thank you for welcoming me and accepting me as your sister and friend, and thank you for pushing me towards Christ. I love you all dearly, though I have only known you for a few weeks!

_ walking_

What I see on a walk back from school.

The escape from studio, from class, from the palace. It is leaving what is formal, frescoed, and serious. Sometimes, it is leaving what is warm and dry for someplace cold and wet, which seems to be the case in November. The cobblestone streets shine with the reflection of the lighted shop windows and restaurants against the dark damp stone. Fewer people line the streets, as they often do on these evenings. Only those with a reason to be out are. Thus, it is filled with Italians on cell phones, or shopkeepers just closing. The usual bustle of lost dreamy tourists is absent when it has rained.

Walking on these nights is usually incredibly peaceful. Cars stop and go, turn right and left, with a certain rhythm and balance. Their sounds, though not quiet, fade into the background like the harmless white noise of household appliances. Somewhat often there is a rift in this 'calm', and the blaring wailing siren of an ambulance or Polizia rushes by.

If you are observant, you can pick apart the background of people walking by. The exhausted, blank-looking ones with backpacks and laptop bags are most probably study abroad students, tired from another day of Roman college life, or their 500th historical tour. The women with long pea coats and tall dark boots are typically businesswomen, those wearing stilettos or those changing into them have not quite come out of the woodwork yet. It is still too early in the night, and early in the week. Older men in suits have usually escaped from the office by this point, but those that work a little later a present, walking to their cars or motorbikes to return home. And then there are the tourists. On these rainy nights, it's the hardcore tourists that are still present, trying to figure out what in Rome is still visible and photo-worthy on a dark wet night.

At around 8 at night, the city is in a lull. Shops have closed or are closing. People are home with their families, just barely starting supper. And even the homeless are starting their suppers. The most amazing thing happens around this time of night, at least on some streets. ..The homeless who so numerously line the streets, sitting shivering and humble before passers by finally have food. They draw it out of plastic grocery bags and take-out containers. No, they did not just fake being poor - they have been given their food. If you wait and watch, sometimes you can see a shop-keeper or restaurant cook sneak out quietly, whistle abruptly, and hold out a plastic bag containing take out containers with 'gift food.' Beautiful.

Just a few blocks further, and you reach a large ministry and the beginning of my pocket of quiet residential streets. The few stores there are long closed. Just the 'Fruitteria' is open, the shopkeeper as welcoming as ever. Italian grocers are extremely special. Though you may be foreign, though you may not know exactly what you want, though you may have issues finding your change, the still greet you with a smile and treat you with kindness. They pick over their produce for the best they have. They even give you free gifts if they are shown loyalty or you spend a specific amount. It is an incredibly warm and welcome thing to have your grocery eagerly ask how you are and carefully package up food for you, like they were fragile china.

A minute of walking more, and the glass and iron door is reached, red sensor glowing at the foot of the door, Italian messages surrounding the inside warning of 'automatic door - do not push!' But our key doesn't work for the magical button. Instead, the regular old key turns, the door creaks, and you arrive in the white tunnel that first symbolizes your Roman ' home'

_autumn_

Right now I am really missing fall and all of the wonderful things it has to offer. It's probably my favorite season of the year. Fall in Minnesota is by far my favorite. Fall in New York is also beautiful. Fall in Torino was pleasant. Fall in Rome........ not so much. It's choking with tourists.

There are so many wonderful things about fall. Things I really wish I could do here! Some of them I'm still going to do. You can bet on that :)

Hot chocolate on crisp days
the colors on the North Shore of Minnesota, especially on the way to Grand Marais
kids in cute Halloween costumes, pining for candy
raking leaves into huge piles
leaf fights
hay rides
apple picking
corn mazes
pumpkin patches
cranberries
pumkin pie
..and apple pie
and family.
Fall usually involves lots and lots of family.

_roma and such_

Well, we're back in Roma, with one week of class under our belts. I'm currently researching the incredibly interesting (aka yawn-inducing) world of Italian Fascist architecture. And I'm listening to a sermon from Mars Hill. And it is such an incredible breath of fresh air. I found in through my wonderful New Tribe back in New York, which I miss a lot. A lot a lot.  I guess they are studying the subject next week. Somehow I love this topic. Well, love/hate. Dating and marriage are incredibly frustrating at times (aka....unwanted attention from guys....vespa-riding stalkers..etc.) but it is also so incredibly beautiful at times because it illustrates so much of God's relationship with us, what he desires for us in life, how unfathomable his love is.

I think I will probably come back and write some of the text and comment on it eventually (like tomorrow..) but I will post the link to the video/audio for now. I love it. So true, so challenging, so refreshing.

http://www.marshillchurch.org/media/religionsaves/dating

_in the alpi_

Next city we hit was Trento, which is even more in the middle of the Alps. It was beautiful. It was positioned within a large valley between some very tall mountains, and of course some shorter ones. We actually got to take a gondola up to one of the shorter ones for the steep total of….90 cents. Score. It was actually a commuter gondola for the residents at the top of the hill, so it cost as much as a bus would. The view was amazing. I took a lot of pictures, but pictures cannot quite do it justice I think. Oh yes, we took the most roundabout way ever to get to the gondola. The bus, instead of going down a few blocks to the river and consequently the gondola station, decided to travel around the entire perimeter of the city. We were very confused. But it was absolutely gorgeous at the top. Totally worth it.  

you can see the market in the bottom right corner in front of the church.. 

the large triangular shaped building complexes are the new apartments by Renzo Piano,
and you can also see the gorgeous blue river. so clear.  

After we left the gondola we went back into the city for a lunch break, and we all went to the market! It was amazing! And huge! Yes, markets are probably my favorite part about Italy. And this one was nice because 1) it was mainly clothes, scarves, coats, and other warm things 2) it was really cold 3) we were in the middle of the Alps 4)…in Italy. So, I actually bought a coat! My last big purchase of the trip (my first being boots). But I love the coat. I saw it earlier when we walked through the market quickly, but I didn’t think we would have time to go back through. But I got it! And for 69 euro, which is really not bad, seeing how most of the coats I find are around 90-120. And it has a really gigantic hood. 

Viennese/Italian restaurant and microbrewery
 where we had some good tasty food. 

Other highlights in Trento include the micro-brewery we found, the castle (and the view from the castle)... and of course, sneaking out of touring a church to shop with Emilio. Also, the gelato in Trento was really good. Ah yes, and we got to see a new Renzo Piano project that is being built right outside the city limits - a natural science museum and a huge apartment complex/neighborhood. 

_vai a nord_

Currently: laying in a very comfy bed in a very comfy hotel in Verona. I have found myself to be a very big fan of Verona. It’s a nice size for a 2-day trip, with everything in extremely easy walking distance. It’s an old city, filled with Roman ruins, Medieval streets, and lots of pretty things. It’s clean and primarily brick, cobblestone streets in the busy areas and marble lanes in the fancy pedestrian streets. It’s a rich city, both culturally and financially. Apparently Verona and Vicenza have two of the higher GDP’s in the country/world. Yet I’ve managed to spend only around 10 euro per day here. I have this magically invention called “pack a lunch from breakfast” that works wonders for my budget.

the phones and graffiti near Juliet's balcony

Verona is definitely one of my favorites. I don’t really like the super kitschy tourist-swarmed Verona that happens in the main Piazza Bra’ during the middle of the day, but I’m in love with the Verona  of the early morning hours, it’s backstreets, and gracefully lit hidden areas. That Verona is truly beautiful.

For example, I thought it would be fun to visit Juliet’s balcony (Verona is where ‘Romeo and Juliet’ is set), especially since it was right by where we ate dinner the night before. It was just a simple gated opening off of one of the semi-pedestrian streets. It would be easy to pass by…except for the fact that the entire doorway/entrance to the courtyard is completely covered in graffiti. It’s slightly ridiculous. It’s not your typical graffiti either – it’s all love notes. ‘So-and-so loves  so-and-so’ ‘Mark + Amelia = <3” “I love Lars!” (That last one was my favorite. I’m not sure why. Maybe just because I love the name Lars. ) 

...excessive amounts of graffiti....

the infamous statue of Juliet
and the balcony, of course

Anyway, it was a simple courtyard, ground covered in stones and vines covering the walls. “Casa da Giullietta” is not really authentic, so I am told, but it is set up as a typical Veronese house. The balcony is simple and stone. It’s very picturesque, so it makes sense. Underneath there is the infamous statue of Juliet. One breast and her arm are completely polished smooth and shiny because of the numerous visitors. The tradition is to touch her breast as a sign of good luck and fortune… somehow I can’t get over the weirdness of it….but anyway…  It was definitely a good thing I got there early because there was no one there. Just one Japanese couple came in, took a picture, and left. When the entire group went to the *cough cough* tourist trap later that day, it was PACKED with people, hardly even recognizable. Thank goodness for my early morning walks.

Also on my morning walk I discovered the church of Anastasia – or Chiesa Anaztazia I think is the actual name. I was there around 8:30 or earlier, so no one was around. I wasn’t sure if I needed to pay or not because there was a ticket counter and signs up… but no one there. So I walked in. Little did I know I would normally have to pay, and around 6 Euro at that. The church was beautiful though – painted white with frescoes everywhere. They weren’t the typical frescoes though – these were mostly floral and bright, almost like they were slightly Scandinavian or something. The church was so bright inside though! Definitely a Romanesque church…yet it was so filled with light. I was shocked – no lights on, and the entire building was illuminated. Perhaps that is just the power of white. Regardless, I was really please I got to see it with early morning light….free….and empty. Later in the same day, or perhaps it was the next? I don’t remember… 

Kateri, Tyler and I went to the church after dinner because we could see a couple people walk inside, though 9:30 seemed much too late. We heard music coming from inside and were instantly disappointed that there was a mass and we would not be able to enter and take pictures. We entered, and were completely confused by the abundance of people and the lack of any clergy…whatsoever. Well, it was an organ concert! We had stumbled into a free organ concert – there were only 4 and this happened to be the correct day at the correct church in the correct city. Score. We always seem to stumble upon the best things.

piazza under the tower in Verona. Dante is in the center, pondering intensely.
(if you click on any of these pictures you can see it in full size)  

After St. Anaztazia comes the river, of course, which was beautiful. Behind it was the Roman amphitheater and a gorgeous hill filled with more old pretty buildings. I love water. I love the way light shines off water in the morning, I love its speed, power, and yet its tranquility. And the water was a very pretty blue. Not like the lovely dark bluish brown you find in rivers in the States. I never did get to go to the Roman theater across the river, but maybe some other day. 

panorama of the river where near the church of Anastasia