_vai a nord_

Currently: laying in a very comfy bed in a very comfy hotel in Verona. I have found myself to be a very big fan of Verona. It’s a nice size for a 2-day trip, with everything in extremely easy walking distance. It’s an old city, filled with Roman ruins, Medieval streets, and lots of pretty things. It’s clean and primarily brick, cobblestone streets in the busy areas and marble lanes in the fancy pedestrian streets. It’s a rich city, both culturally and financially. Apparently Verona and Vicenza have two of the higher GDP’s in the country/world. Yet I’ve managed to spend only around 10 euro per day here. I have this magically invention called “pack a lunch from breakfast” that works wonders for my budget.

the phones and graffiti near Juliet's balcony

Verona is definitely one of my favorites. I don’t really like the super kitschy tourist-swarmed Verona that happens in the main Piazza Bra’ during the middle of the day, but I’m in love with the Verona  of the early morning hours, it’s backstreets, and gracefully lit hidden areas. That Verona is truly beautiful.

For example, I thought it would be fun to visit Juliet’s balcony (Verona is where ‘Romeo and Juliet’ is set), especially since it was right by where we ate dinner the night before. It was just a simple gated opening off of one of the semi-pedestrian streets. It would be easy to pass by…except for the fact that the entire doorway/entrance to the courtyard is completely covered in graffiti. It’s slightly ridiculous. It’s not your typical graffiti either – it’s all love notes. ‘So-and-so loves  so-and-so’ ‘Mark + Amelia = <3” “I love Lars!” (That last one was my favorite. I’m not sure why. Maybe just because I love the name Lars. ) 

...excessive amounts of graffiti....

the infamous statue of Juliet
and the balcony, of course

Anyway, it was a simple courtyard, ground covered in stones and vines covering the walls. “Casa da Giullietta” is not really authentic, so I am told, but it is set up as a typical Veronese house. The balcony is simple and stone. It’s very picturesque, so it makes sense. Underneath there is the infamous statue of Juliet. One breast and her arm are completely polished smooth and shiny because of the numerous visitors. The tradition is to touch her breast as a sign of good luck and fortune… somehow I can’t get over the weirdness of it….but anyway…  It was definitely a good thing I got there early because there was no one there. Just one Japanese couple came in, took a picture, and left. When the entire group went to the *cough cough* tourist trap later that day, it was PACKED with people, hardly even recognizable. Thank goodness for my early morning walks.

Also on my morning walk I discovered the church of Anastasia – or Chiesa Anaztazia I think is the actual name. I was there around 8:30 or earlier, so no one was around. I wasn’t sure if I needed to pay or not because there was a ticket counter and signs up… but no one there. So I walked in. Little did I know I would normally have to pay, and around 6 Euro at that. The church was beautiful though – painted white with frescoes everywhere. They weren’t the typical frescoes though – these were mostly floral and bright, almost like they were slightly Scandinavian or something. The church was so bright inside though! Definitely a Romanesque church…yet it was so filled with light. I was shocked – no lights on, and the entire building was illuminated. Perhaps that is just the power of white. Regardless, I was really please I got to see it with early morning light….free….and empty. Later in the same day, or perhaps it was the next? I don’t remember… 

Kateri, Tyler and I went to the church after dinner because we could see a couple people walk inside, though 9:30 seemed much too late. We heard music coming from inside and were instantly disappointed that there was a mass and we would not be able to enter and take pictures. We entered, and were completely confused by the abundance of people and the lack of any clergy…whatsoever. Well, it was an organ concert! We had stumbled into a free organ concert – there were only 4 and this happened to be the correct day at the correct church in the correct city. Score. We always seem to stumble upon the best things.

piazza under the tower in Verona. Dante is in the center, pondering intensely.
(if you click on any of these pictures you can see it in full size)  

After St. Anaztazia comes the river, of course, which was beautiful. Behind it was the Roman amphitheater and a gorgeous hill filled with more old pretty buildings. I love water. I love the way light shines off water in the morning, I love its speed, power, and yet its tranquility. And the water was a very pretty blue. Not like the lovely dark bluish brown you find in rivers in the States. I never did get to go to the Roman theater across the river, but maybe some other day. 

panorama of the river where near the church of Anastasia